Argentina is a staggeringly beautiful and diverse country, with landscapes reminiscent of every corner of the globe. One day you could be in the Norwegian Fjords, the next day in Italian wine country, and the day after that, in the dense jungles of Borneo. While you could spend a lifetime in Argentina and still not see everything, if you follow my two week Argentina itinerary, you’ll see the highlights.
Argentina is huge, like really huge; in fact, it’s the 8th largest country on earth! So this itinerary will factor in getting flights around the country. If you choose to get the coach, sure, it will work out a little bit cheaper, but you’ll be spending multiple days solely on buses.
Top Tips
- Take advantage of the Blue Dollar Rate.
- Avoid paying with a card.
- Argentinians are fiercely proud people, don’t disrespect their country.
- Don’t talk about the Falklands/Malvinas.
Week One of My Two Week Argentina Itinerary
Day 1-2: The magical city of Buenos Aires
So you’ve landed in Argentina after a long flight, little sleep, and airline food. You’re tired but excited. Even with jet lag, one thing is for sure: Buenos Aires will instantly captivate you with its eclectic mix of colonial, neoclassical, and art nouveau architecture. Some people refer to this city as “the Paris of Latin America”, but that seems a little unfair; if I had to sum up Argentina’s largest city with one phrase, it would be “European class, with South American flare”.
What could I do?
Partying and nightlife
As a city of 16 million people, there’s no shortage of late-night drinking spots in Buenos Aires. The most popular area for foreigners and partying is Palermo, with no shortage of trendy bars and nightclubs. In fact, Argentina was the only South American city where I managed to find a lively and varied dance music scene.
Buenos Aires is also known as the City of Tango. After all, the dance was invented in the city. Even many years later, the culture is still thriving, and the port city is still the world’s top destination to learn the enchanting, intimate dance.
It would be criminal to visit the city of Tango and not give it a shot. I’m your typical white British man, meaning I have two left feet and no rhythm, but even I had a blast trying it out. Although I do now prefer salsa dancing (no offence to my Argentinian friends),
You can try tango at La Viruta, which is probably one of the best-known milongas or dancehalls in the entire city. It does draw the top talent of the local tango scene, but don’t let that put you off—beginners are welcome too!
Cultural sights
As previously mentioned, Buenos Aires has some of the best architecture in all of the Americas. Those who like to geek out while admiring different styles of architecture could easily spend their full two weeks just walking around Centro, but if we had to narrow everything down to a few offerings, these would be it.
Plaza del Congreso
Plaza del Congreso is a large square near downtown Buenos Aires; at one end, it features Argentina’s Congress (hence the name). You aren’t actually allowed in the Congress building, but you can admire it from the outside at one of the many cafés that line the streets here.
La Bomberena-Boca Juniors
For Argentinians, football is more than just a sport; it is a symbol of their national identity and pride. It forms the beating heart of the country and unites what is becoming a more divided nation. Everyone should take the time out to soak in the atmosphere of an Argentinian football match, and there is no better place to do this than watching Boca at the iconic La Bomberena stadium.
Tickets for Boca Juniors do sell out fast, but there’s never a shortage of stubs available on the resale market. Just ask at your hostel or hotel reception; they will have someone trustworthy who sells tickets to put you in contact with.
San Telmo Market
San Telmo is an area a stone’s throw from both the ferry terminal and Obelisco; it features cute colonial architecture, some incredible street art, and probably the best tourist market in Buenos Aires. I’d advise spending a day walking around San Telmo if possible. Bring a camera with you; there won’t be any shortage of incredible photos.
But the market specifically is an excellent place to grab some really good food or some gifts for friends and family.
Where to stay in Buenos Aires
- Budget: Viajero Hostel Buenos Aires in San Telmo is a fantastic hostel for those watching their pennies. It’s got a lively bar, great social events, and two swimming pools!
- Mid-range: The GrandView Hotel in Balvanera is an excellent hotel with a large swimming pool, gym, and breakfast included for about $60 per night. I stayed here after 3 weeks in Patagonia, and I can vouch for their spacious rooms, comfortable beds, and excellent views.
- Luxury: The Park Tower Marriot in Retiro is an excellent luxury travel choice; the rooms are elegant and spacious, the beds are renowned for their comfort, and it’s located close to all the transport hubs.
Day 3–4: Fin de Mundo: Ushuaia
There are few cities more iconic and emotive than Ushuaia, the southernmost city on earth. It was from here that the ill-fated battleship Belgrano sailed during the 1982 war with the United Kingdom, but this beautiful city has so much more to offer, so hop on a flight down here.
Ushuaia is a stunning city, surrounded to the north by the southernmost tip of Patagonia and to the south by the Beagle Channel. This isolated position, dubbed by locals “fin del mundo” or “end of the world,” means there is no shortage of wildlife and epic views to enjoy.
Top Tips:
- Ushuaia has unpredictable and extreme weather; pack appropriately.
- Very windy and cold.
- Only one Western Union, which sometimes runs out of money. Stock up on pesos in Buenos Aires.
What should I do?
Lagauna Esmeralda hike
Laguna Esmerlda is, as the name suggests, a beautiful green lake situated in the mountains just outside of Ushuaia. There’s a good reason it’s the area’s most well-known hike; it’s easy to get to and easy to complete. In fact, the biggest challenge of the trail is that it can get very boggy if it rains or snows, so you stand a good chance of getting soggy feet. Which should come as no surprise, is exactly what happened to me, but while my feet were soaked, my spirit wasn’t.
Despite getting dangerously close to trench foot thanks to a heavy snowfall the night before my hike, the entire trail was like something out of a Disney film. Branches from pine trees swayed downward, encumbered by the weight of the fresh snowfall, as nesting birds called out. Alpine streams peacefully trickled through the landscape, cutting through the snow like a knife through butter.
But as with all good hikes, the best was saved for last. Laguna Esmeralda sits in a half-bowl of mountains, the peak of which is rocky and steep and the lower portions lush with vegetation. I was lucky enough to visit during autumn, so the trees and bushes were all a deep red colour, a strong contrast against the light green lake and the crystalline snow.
Wildlife boat tour
Departing from the middle of town, a tour to the penguin and seal colonies is a must for any trip to Ushuaia. You can buy your ticket at the location pictured below. Each tour lasts about 6 or 7 hours, during which you will see penguins, seals, large sea birds, and maybe even whales.
Where to stay in Ushuaia
- Budget: El Refugio Lodge Hostel is excellently located, just a few minutes walk from the ferry terminal and even closer to the main road. It has a 24-hour reception and warm, comfortable rooms (most hostels in Ushuaia don’t have this).
- Mid-range: Hotel Tierra del Fiego boasts impressive views of the harbour and sea thanks to its excellent location on the harbour front. It is styled in cute alpine décor and even offers a fitness centre.
- Luxury: Arakur Resort and Spa is unquestionably the best hotel in the area. Boasting a spa, two swimming pools, and breathtaking panoramic views, those with a budget should stay here.
Day 5, El Calafate
Now that we’re finally getting to Patagonia proper, El Calafate is a bit of a frontier town situated on one of the three great lakes of Argentina. There isn’t a great deal to do in the town itself, but it’s more of a jumping-off point for other activities.
What should I do in El Calafate?
As soon as you get here, head down to town and book yourself onto a tour to the Perito Moreno Glacier, named after the man who brokered peace between Argentina and Chile. This is a true giant of a glacier and one of the few worldwide that isn’t receding.
You can pay extra to do a boat trip that takes you surprisingly close to the glacier itself, but we didn’t bother. The walkways are really well laid out, and they get you just as close anyway!
Evening
Argentina is famed for its love of meat; some of the world’s best cuts and steakhouses are here. But Patagonia is by far the best place to eat what I consider the national dish, parilla. Parilla sounds simple; in fact, it sounds like a mixed grill, but it is so much more than that. It’s freshly prepared meats, roasted in the traditional way (see photo below), prepared with love, and served in a warm, homely environment.
Where to stay in El Calafate
- Budget: The Calafate hostel is an excellent choice for those on a budget; it’s close to the main road with bars, restaurants, and supermarkets. It’s also clean and warm, with excellent communal facilities.
- Mid-Range: The Wyndham Boutique Hotel is situated near Libertador Avenue and boasts spacious accommodations with excellent views over the monumental Argentino Lake.
Week two of my two week Argentina itinerary
Day 7-8, El Chalten
Chalten is the epicentre of regional hiking, rivalled only by Bariloche a bit further north. But while Bariloche might be a bit easier to get to, El Chalten is the go-to place to access the world-famous Fitzroy Mountain, which inspired the clothing brand Patagonia.
What should I do in El Chalten?
There really isn’t much to do in El Chalten; it’s a tiny town nestled deep in the mountains, known only for the hiking trails that permeate out in all directions. But the king of those trails is the Fitzroy Trek.
It’s a full day’s outing, taking approximately 4 hours each way, but every step of the way is stunning. The trailhead is clearly marked, and the entire trail is easy to follow, with the only challenging part being right at the end. You only need moderate fitness to complete this.
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If you’re lucky, when you get to the top, you’ll have a clear view of the iconic Fitzroy silhouette and the three giant rock spears jutting out of the mountain. I can’t say I was this lucky, but in typical fashion, the weather cleared as soon as I descended.
Late on day 8, get the bus back to Calafate, ready for your next destination.
Where should I stay?
- Budget: I stayed in Rancho Grande, and I can’t recommend it enough; the rooms are excellent, and it is conveniently located close to the trailhead for the Fitzroy Trail.
- Mid-Range: The Destino Sur Hotel & Spa is probably the nicest hotel in El Chalten. Conveniently located just 500 metres from Los Glaciares National Park, every room also has mountain views.
Day 9: Fly to Mendoza
Argentina is famed for meat and wine; you’ve already indulged in Parilla in Patagonia, so you’d better have a taste of their second-best export. There’s nowhere better in South America to slow down, relax, and enjoy some vino. Wine tours are usually a day-trip affair and surprisingly cheap; you’ll sample about 15 wines throughout the day and may even visit olive oil plantations.
If wine isn’t your thing, you’re not out of luck. Mendoza sits about half an hour outside of the Patagonian foothills, so there are plenty of adventure sports to try. We did whitewater rafting at Portillos, but you can also paraglide and mountain bike.
Day 10–12: Iguazu Falls
Iguazu Falls is a must-see for anyone who is travelling to either Brazil or Argentina; it’s a testament to the raw beauty and power of Mother earth. The mere sight of the falls will captivate you with their astonishing beauty and thunderous power, and while they’re incredible from either side, I firmly believe that the Argentinian side is better!
Being one of the continent’s premier tourist destinations, it’s very easily accessible, with airports on both the Brazilian and Argentinian sides, and accommodation is also very good for budget travellers like me (especially in Brazil).
It sits in the north-east of Argentina near the tri-point shared with Brazil and Paraguay in Missiones province, meaning you can visit all 3 countries on a day trip without the need for a visa!
You should try to visit both the Brazilian and Argentinian sides, using Puerto Iguazu as your jumping-off point. Getting to the falls from Puerto Iguazu is easy; just visit the bus station in the centre of town. Buses leave every half an hour or so; if you don’t want to wait, there are normally taxis waiting that will take you to the gate for a reasonable price.
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Where should I stay in Puerto Iguazu?
- Budget: Tucan Hostel is an excellent choice for all backpackers. It’s a family-owned hostel that is centrally located in a safe neighbourhood with a pool and excellent communal facilities.
- Mid-Range: Hotel Saint George boasts a lush garden and two swimming pools for guests to relax in, in addition to a spa and respected restaurant. Conveniently, it is located opposite the bus station you’ll use to get to the falls.
- Luxury: Gran Melia Iguazu is strategically located inside the national park and is beset with stunning grounds and an infinity pool. You can even see the spray rising from the Devil’s Throat from the grounds.
Day 13: Fly back to Buenos Aires
There are multiple daily flights from Puerto Iguazu to Buenos Aires; hop on one of those (we recommend Aerolineas Argentinas) and head back to the capital.
After your two weeks of fun and excitement, chances are you’re going to want—and need—some rest and relaxation tonight. So why not sample some Argentinian delicacies one more time? Maybe some egregiously cheesy pizza from Diego Maradona’s favourite pizzeria or some succulent steak from Don Julio’s.
Day 14: Time to leave
The day has come, and the last two weeks have flown by like a bat out of hell. Although normal life and work are beckoning you like a siren to sailors, relish in the memories and friends you have made as well as the one-of-a kind sights you have seen.
Not many people can visit Argentina once and never return; I’m certain I won’t be one of them, and you won’t be either. I’m already planning my prodigal return months after leaving; will you?
